by Sam Tackeff | Sep 28, 2013 | Meat, Restaurants
Last night was an unexpected night on the town, and since I’m a homebody most of the time, was quite the adventure! After leaving work a little early, we went hunting for goodies at the record store in Allston (we left with some Dave Brubeck), and then headed back to the Waterfront for dinner.
After taking part in the Lamb Pro-Am this summer (and winning! yep, I’m a lamb-pion), I’ve been pining to head back to the DiBiccari brothers’ Tavern Road for dinner – and finally got the chance to. The restaurant is a great addition to the Fort Point Congress street corridor of the Boston Waterfront, and it’s a shame that more people don’t know about it! The food is excellent, well priced, and there’s some forward culinary thinking going on. This time around, I had the bluefish pâté to start, which comes with these salty-crispy buttery homemade crackers that were the perfect spread vehicle. (Bluefish pâté is one of my favorite New England foods, and I try to treat myself whenever I see it on a menu. Theirs is a winner.) Devon had the duck prosciutto, which was a little small portion wise – only a few slices, but quite good. (If you get a chance, Ruhlman’s duck prosciutto is a great home curing project.) They serve these delightful warm rolls, with some unexpected whipped citrus butter, which I’d eat by itself by the spoonful. For dinner, our friend Allison got the citrus marinated smoked chicken, Devon got a bowl of meaty bolognese with perfectly tender pasta, and I went with the harissa-rubbed roasted lamb, with roasted hubbard squash, silky squash puree, and Marfax beans.
We left full and happy, and stumbled out across the street to Drink to assess our luck with the line. The wait didn’t seem too bad, and we happened to be in line in front of the Scott Caan/Ryan Gosling look-alike who works in the Waterfront, so I didn’t mind waiting for a bit. (Yes, seriously, this guy looks just enough like Ryan Gosling that I usually do a double take when I see him crossing the street.) By 9:15, I hadn’t ordered my Ramos Gin Fizz yet, and was starting to get a little bit cranky. Allison mentioned unbaked cookie dough in her freezer, and so we gave up our spot, and made a b-line to her apartment in Charlestown. The evening ended with warm cookies, Ghostbusters, and me passed out on her couch.
We got home sometime past midnight, and today ended up being quite the lazy Saturday, as I missed my alarm for the gym… Instead, we ran errands – the bank, the post office to send in Devon’s passport application, brunch, and a long nap. In the early evening, I went for a manicure at Miniluxe, had matcha at Peet’s, and headed home to cook this up for dinner:
Not your regular beef and broccoli – I’m always nostalgic for takeout style beef and broccoli, but I prefer a lighter, brighter sauce, more like what you’d find in Vietnamese cooking: meat flavored with lime, and fish sauce, rather than your average thick brown slurry. Poking around my fridge tonight, I found some beef stir-fry meat from the butcher that I needed to use, and some broccoli that was on the edge of leaving us. I steamed the broccoli for 6 minutes in the microwave, got my cast iron pan nice and hot, added a good glug of oil, tipped in my beef, and spread it about my pan so it wouldn’t be crowded and steam. I didn’t touch it for three minutes, so the bottom would get brown and crispy. While the meat cooked, I made my sauce – the juice of one lime, about a tablespoon of Red Boat Fish sauce, and a teaspoon of piloncillo (brown sugar), to round things out. I flipped the beef, cooked for another minute until it was just cooked through, added the now-steamed broccoli, poured on the sauce, and tossed. After tasting, I finished with just a sprinkle of Maldon salt, and we had a feast. The sauce was just enough for about 3/4 lb. of meat and a 12 ounces of broccoli, but I’d double it if you have any more meat and veg than that.
Tavern Road
www.tavernroad.com
343 Congress Street
Fort Point, Boston
Drink
http://drinkfortpoint.com/
348 Congress Street
Fort Point, Boston
by Sam Tackeff | Sep 24, 2013 | Books, Local stores, Meat
The last Tuesday of the month is the day I pick up my meat club allotment at the best butcher shop in town – M.F. Dulock, in Somerville. For $50, I left with a nice sized package of spicy beef sausage, stew meat, stir fry meat, goat chops and pork jowl – enough to last me several weeks. The meat is pasture raised, broken down by the people handing it to me. It makes me a really happy camper.
I wish I had more exciting stories to tell you, but here’s what’s plaguing me today: I have $11.30 in library fines. I swear I’m not a jerk – it was an accident involving eight items that were overdue for three days. And two of those were DVD’s. And apparently, when you have an excess of $5 in fines, they shut off your ability to download digital items, until you head into the library and pay up. And they also disable your ability to the pay the fines online. This makes me grumbly. Let me give you my money! I might even donate a little extra every time I had to pay a fine if I could do it from the comfort of my own home.
Okay, but what does this mean for me exactly?
It means that I can’t download the audio book that I’ve been queuing patiently for for two months.
Let me pay you money, library, and let me download my Wallander audiobook!
Which reminds me. I probably should get around to trying Audible.com. Does anyone use it? Is it worth it? Inquiring minds want to know. I’ve been trying to stick to this free audiobook from the libary thing, but apparently it raises my general stress level to “unacceptable neuroses”.
Okay, that’s enough complaining. I suppose I should mention something about my almost favorite part of the day – dinner! (Second only to Second Lunch.)
My first order of business was to fry up a merguez burger that I was planning on eating on some wilted greens with lemon. After frying the first side for a few minutes, I got a call from Devon letting me know that he needed to be picked up, so I turned off the heat, flipped the burger, and popped the lid on, hoping for the best. When I returned less than 20 minutes later, the burger was browned nicely on both sides, and cooked perfectly through. A meaty-miracle!
I’ll admit though, that somehow in the 20 minutes I forgot all about the wilted greens. By the time we got home I was starving, so the burger became my appetizer. Devon came back hungry, so I decided to put the “red hot beef” sausage from meat club in the pan – which halfway through cooking I determined was too spicy for him (it was so spicy that I nearly was choking on the smoke – just the way I like it). So he got refried beans and eggs cooked in spicy sausage drippings, and I ate a piece of sausage, and no vegetables, and just decided that I’d be okay with it, because sometimes all you want is a piece of meaty goodness, and nothing else. Sometimes, being an adult is *the best*.
by Sam Tackeff | Apr 15, 2013 | Braises, Meat, Salads
Editor’s note: thank you so much to everyone who voted for me in the competition! This was not only the winning recipe, but the winning competition dish. What a blast!
Last week I ran out of my office in Haymarket, laden with my massive computer bag, and wearing flats, managed to sprint over to Tavern Road, a little over a mile, in 14 minutes. For a lamb party.
Tavern Road is the newest restaurant to pop up on Congress Street in Fort Point, and I’ve loved what I’ve seen (and tasted) so far. The restaurant is modern American, with as much attention paid to vegetables as to charcuterie. Last week I stopped by for a little pre-dinner, where I made my way through three vegetable dishes and a few slices of ham. The one that stood out was the grilled broccoli rabe with vanilla and hazelnuts, but everything was very good. They also have a well worn selection of cookbooks on the open kitchen counter, including Bertolli’s ‘Cooking by Hand’, which always leads me to judge a cook favorably. I’ll be stopping by often, so I’ll be sure to report back soon. {The only warning I have is that most of the parking turns into residential past 6pm. I learned this not because of the signs, but because of the 40 dollar parking ticket I earned last week for moving my car two blocks over from the lot to near the restaurant… yeesh.}
So about this party – the kind folks at BostonChefs.com invited me to participate in the American Lamb Board Lamb Pro-Am – a promotional event hooking up bloggers with local chefs to celebrate the most delicious of meats. (Seriously, I love it more than bacon.) At the party, we were served lamb meatballs, and provided with lamb swag, and a *massive* boneless leg of lamb to have our way with (and come up with a recipe for the competition).
I don’t usually participate in contests – let’s face it, they usually end up being a popularity thing – but I couldn’t turn down all this meaty goodness (especially in the midst of my gym challenge!). So here’s the deal – voting will begin on 4/17, and if you like lamb, and the possibility of hooking me up with a local chef to make you delicious noms, ewe should vote for me! {UPDATE: Please VOTE for me here: http://bit.ly/ProAm2013 !! Click on that Lamb Mechoui + Moroccan Marinated Carrots on the right, and help me be victorious! Voting will end next Friday, 4/26 at 5pm}
If you, like me, missed out on the Lamb Jam last month (everyone who went managed to make me jealous and bitter), never fear, the winners will be cooking up food for the masses at the official Lamb Pro-Am event on May 19th. If you’d like to gorge yourselves on the winning dishes, Pro-Am ticket sales have begun! Here’s a link to the event page: http://bit.ly/ProAm2013 and here’s a link to the ticket sales page: http://bit.ly/ProAmTix
Without further ado, let me wax poetic about lamb. It’s a little long, forgive me. If you get bored, just scroll though the photos – I did my best to make them lamb-tastic.
I think I’ve mentioned it often enough, but if you are new here, much of my culinary background comes from my Jewish and Turkish heritage, with a smattering of influence from French, Greek, and Moroccan relatives. I’ve grown up in a family who loves to cook, and who more importantly loves to eat – and so I’ve done a lot of it, all over the world, with dedication and gusto.
In my kitchen, Middle Eastern and North African flavors are the most prevalent. I love the rich, warm, sometimes smoky spices. I like spices that pack a punch – I cook with fistfuls of fresh herbs, particularly parsley and mint, and I use a lot of citrus.
Turks eat a lot of lamb – for centuries it has been the most popular type of meat, and pops up in hundreds of different dishes. You’ll commonly find it made into kebabs, pilafs, köfte (meatballs), and stews. Ground lamb is mixed with rice and stuffed into grape leaves, called dolma. It is roasted on spits, and strewn onto little flatbreads called lahmacun, or stuffed in tiny dumplings called mantı, topped with yogurt sauce. I’ve probably eaten a small herd’s worth in my lifetime.
For this recipe, I opted to draw from the flavors and techniques of Moroccan cooking, which feel deeply rooted in my hands and heart, despite never having been on Moroccan soil. (My uncle, however, grew up in Tangiers, so I’ve been gleefully eating Moroccan food since childhood.)
I decided to take a stab at Lamb Mechoui, a slow cooked lamb that is either cooked on a spit, or steamed, until it is falling apart tender, and can be pulled (like southern barbecue) with a fork. I flicked through a dozen cookbooks on my shelf for inspiration – I have a large collection of Middle Eastern, Moroccan, and Mediterranean cookbooks, fantastic titles by Claudia Roden, Paula Wolfert, Joyce Goldstein, Sam & Sam Clark, and Mourad Lahlou to name a few. I settled on the lamb and carrot salad combination from Jamie Oliver’s ‘Jamie Does‘, and decided to punch up the saffron and opt for a steaming/braising method at the suggestion of Mourad Lahlou’s ‘New Moroccan’.
Lamb Mechoui is typically a large cut of lamb such as a leg or a shoulder, smothered in smen (a type of fermented, aged butter), and coated liberally with spices. It’s not impossible to find smen around here (I’ve seen it at Russo’s), but it is expensive.
Joyce Goldstein mentions in ‘Saffron Shores: Jewish Cooking of the Southern Mediterranean’ that the Jews actually made a version of Mechoui, although it certainly wouldn’t have had any butter, as Jews don’t mix milk and meat.
For this recipe, I decided to use Ghee – clarified butter which has been removed of dairy solids. Ghee is sweeter than smen, but plays well with the spices, and I cook with it often. It’s also Paleo friendly and Whole 30 approved, if that matters to you! I’ve made my own with Kerrygold Butter, but was in a pinch this weekend, so picked up a large jar from Purity Farms.
I usually keep ghee at room temperature, but I softened it for a few seconds in the microwave so I could work the spices into it easily. The first step was to work in the salt and the saffron.
You don’t have to make this with saffron, but it lends a lovely unique flavor. When my mom went to Istanbul this summer, I asked her to bring me back kilos of spices from the spice bazaar, including a good amount of saffron threads. These come from Turkey, but I also have a stash from Spain. There’s always a big controversy over the legitimacy of saffron, but as far as I can tell, these both are as real as you can get. A small amount of saffron goes a long way!
The rest of the spices I added were coriander (typically I use ground, but I had run out, and it’s always easy to bash some in the mortar and pestle), cumin, chile powder (I get mine from Rancho Gordo), paprika, and turmeric.
Before spreading on the paste, I stabbed the lamb a dozen times, and stuffed the holes with sliced cloves of garlic. Then, I did my best to coat both sides with the spice mixture.
After coating the lamb, I let it sit at room temperature for two hours, to let the flavors permeate, and to ensure that the large piece of meat was fully at room temperature to help it cook evenly. I then transferred it to my large Le Creuset dutch oven, added a half cup or so of water, covered the pot with the heavy lid, and popped it in a 350 degree oven.
While in the oven, it requires a little attention – basting every 30-45 minutes with a turkey baster. I let it cook for just under three hours, then uncovered the pot, and let the skin crisp up a little bit for about 30 minutes. Then I took the lamb out to rest, put the pot on the stove top, and cooked down the juices into a thick, lamb-y sauce.
The final result was moist, tender, and exceedingly delicious. For an authentic eating experience, you might just ladle a bowl full of sauce, and dip pieces of lamb first in the sauce, then in some cumin and salt. I decided to have some balanced vegetables, and made some carrot salad to accompany it – the recipe is below!
Lamb Mechoui
The boneless leg of lamb from the American Lamb Board was a hefty 8 pounds, but this recipe is scaled down to a four to five pound roast.
1 leg of lamb (or shoulder)
4-5 cloves of garlic, sliced
50 grams of smen or ghee (about 1/2 stick of butter), at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon of saffron threads
1 Tablespoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon ground coriander
1 Tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons chile powder
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
Take the lamb out of the refrigerator, and cut slits in the lamb. Slice the cloves of garlic, and insert into slits.
In a small bowl, mix softened ghee (or smen or butter) with threads of saffron and salt. Then add cumin, coriander, chile powder, paprika, and turmeric, and stir into a paste. Liberally rub the lamb on the inside and out with the mixture, and let rest for an hour or two at room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees for half an hour. Place the lamb in a large dutch oven, skin side up. Pour about half a cup of water into the bottom of the pot, cover, and place into the hot oven. You can also make this in a deep roasting pan, being sure to cover tightly with a double layer of foil. Cook for about 3 hours, basting every 30 – 45 minutes. (It could take shorter or longer depending on the size of your roast.) The meat should be tender, and pull apart with a fork. For the last half hour, remove the lid, and let the skin crisp up.
Transfer the lamb to a platter, and let rest for 10 minutes, before shredding with a fork. While the meat is resting, put the pot with all the juices on the stove, and bring to a low boil, reducing for 10-15 minutes until the liquid is concentrated. Serve the shredded lamb with the lamb reduction, wedges of lemon, and salad accompaniments. (A little bit of yogurt, drizzled with a little bit of olive oil, topped with a few pomegranate seeds is nice here.)
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This lamb dish is quite rich, and needs a tart salad to brighten things up. For our feast, I put together Moroccan Marinated Carrots – my favorite go to salad.
Moroccan Marinated Carrots
I make a version of this salad on a regular basis, sometimes substituting roasted, or even raw shredded carrots for the steamed ones I’ve used here. The garlic powder is untraditional (and possibly tacky), but it dissolves well in the dressing. Sometimes, I add a little bit of runny honey to bring out the sweetness. It’s a bright, spiced side, that goes well with all types of roasted and grilled meats. Or, you could add chickpeas and toasted almonds, for a vegetarian meal. A fistful of mint is also a nice addition.1 pound carrots, peeled and cut on the bias into thick rounds.
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
a few large pinches kosher salt
juice of a lemon
olive oil
a large handful chopped parsley
In a large pot of boil in boiling, salted water, add the carrots and garlic, and boil 6-8 minutes until soft. Drain. (Or, steam carrots in the microwave for 5 minutes with a little bit of water.)
In a small bowl, add cumin, coriander, paprika, cayenne, salt and lemon juice. Whisk together, and slowly pour in olive oil, whisking to combine. Pour over warm carrots, and then let marinate – at least half an hour, or overnight in the fridge. Lasts quite well for three to four days, although I usually add a new handful of fresh herbs to perk things up.
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Please vote for me here: http://bit.ly/ProAm2013 (Voting will end next Friday, 4/26 at 5pm)
I received a leg of lamb from the American Lamb Board and BostonChefs.com to create a recipe with, although I was not compensated for this post. My opinions of lamb are my own – ewe can count on it!
by Sam Tackeff | Jan 30, 2013 | Meat, Photography, Poultry, Quick and Easy
In the past few weeks, my writing practice has seen several false starts. I’ll get motivated to sit down and craft something delightful, and then I’ll stare blankly at my screen. My mind has been so overloaded this month that I’ve been having trouble tuning things out and focusing. This can be infuriating. I have, however, been enjoying the medium of photography, committing myself to share at least one photo a day, usually here on instagram, out of the dozens that I snap on my walks. This is my favorite shot this week– it’s a bit of trickery. I took the photo of trees reflecting on the water of the semi-frozen Charles River, and flipped it upside down. I love how the flecks of ice look like stars.
I’d like to assure you that despite my lack of creative output, I’ve been eating well this month. Mostly. Of course there have been a few trips to Anna’s for Mexican, a couple of sushi orders, and my favorite yesterday: burgers and shakes at the Met Bar. But, I’ve spent a good amount of time at home making worthwhile meals. Here are a few of them.
One cold afternoon, I played around with Mark Bittman’s recipe for Crispy Pork Bits with Jerk Seasoning from How to Cook Everything, which slow cooks pork pieces in the oven seasoned with lots of allspice, nutmeg, coriander and lime, and makes the house smell celebratory. I tossed in a few handfuls of green beans in the last half hour of roasting.
And then there was this chicken dish, which I’ll call tomato braised curry chicken. It’s the ultimate cheater meal – I’ll season chicken thighs with curry powder and salt, and sear them for a few minutes in a little bit of coconut oil. When cooked through, I’ll pour over a jar of Rao’s marinara, bring to a boil, turn down to a simmer, cover, and let cook for about half an hour so that the chicken-y juices infuse the sauce. You can serve it over rice, or spaghetti squash, or eat it just plain in a bowl, like I do.
One night we had my childhood favorite, franks and beans, and big salads. I used to use Pearl hot dogs and the sickly sweet Campbell’s with the little pieces of salt pork like my grandfather liked, but these days I tend to use Applegate Organic hotdogs that I pick up at Trader Joes, and some sort of hippy brand of beans when I’m not making my own with Rancho Gordo’s.
There was this delightful winter lunch – a perfect steak from the butcher shop, which came in my Meat Club subscription, otherwise I’d likely never leave with something so fancy! I seasoned it with salt, pepper, and cumin, and served it with a little Moroccan carrot salad, with a cumin and preserved lemon vinaigrette, and a little handful of cured olives.
Another perfect lunch came in the form of a second childhood favorite: liver and peas. I cooked the (goat’s liver!) with a little bit of bacon, tossed in some frozen peas, and then doused it all with a good squeezing of lemon.
A quick dinner came together one night in the form of garlicky pork tenderloin, roasted green beans, and a dollop of guacamole. I like it when my meals have not one, but two shades of green. I usually parcook the green beans and then let them finish in the roasting pan with the pork.
Finally, one of my favorite meals, which we ate twice: roasted chicken thighs with potatoes, tomatoes, lemon and thyme. I love making variations on this, a fairly typically Turkish or Greek meal. I’ll season the chicken thighs with salt, pepper, and thyme, and then sear them skin side down in some melted butter. Then flip them over, and nestle them on top of a few par-cooked potatoes (in the microwave is just fine) and raw tomatoes cut into wedges. Into the oven for about an hour at 375, and the skin comes out crispy. You can also roast a few lemon wedges in there, and then squeeze out the juice onto your chicken.
And now for some wonderful news: when I returned home from a long walk this afternoon, I found a box from Le Creuset on my doorstep! My beloved 7.25 quart Dijon Dutch Oven, which had died of some fluke chipping, had been replaced! They even sent me the same color! Expect to see a good amount of braising and roasting in the coming weeks from my kitchen.
by Sam Tackeff | Nov 3, 2012 | Barbecue, Local stores, Meat
Today we headed over to Formaggio Kitchen for the last of their weekly seasonal barbecue. We’ve braved the lines a half dozen times this summer to partake in this wonderful tradition. It would have been more, but usually I’m too ashamed about how many times I’ve been there during the week to show up again on a Saturday. I drink a lot of coffee at Formaggio.
We’ve devoured their sausage, beef brisket, lamb brisket, hot dogs, tongue tacos, Turkish lahmacun (“llama-june” – think: very, very thin pizza topped with ground meat), cornbread, grilled corn, jicama coleslaw, smoky-sweet-meaty baked beans, potato salad, grilled peaches, and their grilled chicken. It’s always a treat.
We arrived late this afternoon, around 1:45, and queued up before I even had a chance to go in and grab my favorite coffee. I didn’t want to risk it.
It was chilly, but the smell of barbecue kept us distracted. We stood behind two men wearing leather jackets and babies in papooses. A small child behind us was getting enthusiastically licked by two patient dogs. I love the line for people watching here almost as much as I love the barbecue. Everyone is always smiling with anticipation, and you get a real motley crew. We were once invited to a house in the Virgin Islands by a complete stranger while waiting in the line – you never know who you are going to meet.
When we got to the front, Devon got a few hot dogs, and I will have you know that I managed to score the very last serving of barbecue beef brisket. That’s right, the crispy, bottom of the pot, the “Sorry, that’s all folks!” serving, the ultimate, pinnacle of meat. A moment later and we would have been out of luck, and I would have likely been sobbing on the sidewalk.
For a single split second I felt bad for the folks standing in line behind me. Yes, just one tiny fraction of a second. And then I sat there, selfishly and un-apologetically, eating it slowly, savoring every last bite of the falling apart tender, profoundly meaty, infused with the memories of the season serving of barbecue brisket. I assure you, it was the best barbecue of the summer.
Plus, I got to spend the afternoon with this guy. I lent him my favorite cable knit, and he looked particularly handsome in it. I might have to just let him keep it.
So long, barbecue, we’ll be anxiously waiting your return in Spring.
by Sam Tackeff | Oct 17, 2012 | Meat
I’m going a little bit blind guys. Actually, I’ve been quite blind for most of my life, but pretty much every one of the hundreds of photos I took were blurry yesterday. Forgive me.
* * *
The morning started like nearly every morning around here, with a nice dose of caffeine. This time I headed out for my daily treat, to get some George Howell from Formaggio, dark roast. Black, even though I’d much prefer it with cream. I also miss dipping those little turbinado sugar cubes in the warm coffee until they soak through, and pop them into my mouth. I’m probably better off having kicked that habit.
For lunch, I came home and decided to dose myself with greens. I sauteed large strips of kale until the stems were tender.
I then topped them with leftover chili, which, as promised had become even better after a night in the fridge.
After lunch, I treated myself to dessert – a cappuccino LÄRABAR. I can’t say that this was my favorite flavor, something about the whole coffee bean flecks seemed off and a little bitter.
Before dinner, I took a 45 minute walk around the neighborhood, and treated myself to some squash topped with sunshine sauce.
I then set to work on our dinner: Sous Vide Pork Chops. I seasoned the pork chops with salt, pepper, and mushroom powder.
And then vacuum sealed them with my Foodsaver. I just have a regular one, but if you were in the market for a hunting themed vacuum sealer, they make this horrific and amazing version called the GameSaver in “Mossy Oak“. (You should really click the link.)
While I certainly envy those with a Sous Vide Supreme, I’ve been making do with the next best thing – an Igloo Cooler filled with hot water. My cooler drops only 5-10 degrees over 2 hours, so it does the trick at keeping the meat at a fairly stable temperature.
I filled it with water around 140 degrees, and dunked the pork chops in the bath for two hours, making sure to check that the temperature was between 135 and 140.
After two hours the pork chops were perfectly cooked, but had a pallid unappealing color.
So I heated up some lard and seared off the pork chops for about a minute on each side as I finished up our side dish: red cabbage with prosciutto and cider vinegar.
Mmm…. beautiful!
I served my plate with the small chop, the bone off of Devon’s larger chop, and a side of guacamole.
